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sewing update

I have been needing to update for a long time regarding my experience with Vogue 2902. The dress is done, I've worn it to work a couple of times, and also to my brother and Alicia's Wedding Reception, Part the Second. I must say it is very comfortable, but has enough structure to look fancier than it is--especially since it is made from a very simple linin/cotton blend. But HEAVY. In the future, I might remember that a lightweight lining fabric might be made that way for a reason. But my trusty readers don't care about how it wears. I bet you're all on pins and needles to find out what I thought of the process.

Overall I really enjoyed this pattern. I know it has given others fits, and I went in with trepedation. I think I was particularly suited (dressed?) to take this on for two reasons. First, most of my sewing is done sans pattern/from rubbings of pieces I already own, and secondly because I had just made up (with only broad strokes from Butterick 4443) a lined party dress for my lovely Ms. Kibbeyrella.

I'm getting off track. Overall, this is a pretty basic lined bodice attached to a lined skirt with a zipper to allow a body access. Bodice and contrast band, not affixed. Except for the ridiculous contrast band, wich instead of being attached in some sort of normal method is made as a completely separate (lined) piece that must be slip stitched to the bodice. While I considered ignoring this crazy instruction, opting to instead topstitch the border to the bodice, I'm glad I went with the original instructions. I was able to fit the two pieces together much more exactly as I hand stitched for what seemed like forever (and very well may have been hours and hours). When I was first playing with the pieces I thought I had definitely selected the wrong size and that never in a million years would this dress end up fitting. The closer I came to completion, the better the dress fit, with almost no tailoring.

The shaping for the zipper seems to be totally backwards, as hilatron has noted. Since I am a zipper-installation reject (it seems so simple, but it is not!), I almost always go for the invisible zipper. With this pattern, I was true to form and didn't even try to follow the pattern's non-sensical zipper instructions and had mine installed in a flash. By the time the bodice was finished, band and all, and the skirt/zipper/liner was all put together, I was in no mood to hem around a full circle skirt. I ironed a fold into the liner, ran a zig-zag over the join, and a top-stitch close to the edge, cut out the bottom band, and seamed it (folded in half) to the bottom of the skirt. While it was quick and easy, I regret my quick-and-dirty method for a few reasons. The liner shows more often than I thought, and I wish it's hem was prettier. I might try redoing this someday with my rolled hem foot, though I'm not sure how well this would hold up on the cotton with machine washing. Also, the seam allowance between the bottom band and the skirt is NOT holding up well and is fraying like wildfire. So some hemtape is pretty essential--that I am going to have to handstitch. The most important step I completely skipped was not measuring the hem. There is about a 2' section in the back that hangs about 4" longer than the rest of the skirt. Dumb. So I'm going to have to take the band off and re-attach. Maybe at that time I'll figure out a more intelligent way to put this together. I'm also wishing that a bit of the hem had not bounced against my dirty bike chain the other day, but that is a laundry problem, not a construction problem.

So, any tips on how to get black bike grease out of cotton? My aunts swear by Spray N Wash. Should I trust them? While I'm on a questioning role, here's a few more for my multitudes of readers. I'm still looking to sew up Vogue 2903 even though the Pants's wedding is in the past and Mammacita doesn't need a gaymarrying costume anymore. So I think I'll make it for myself, too. I'd like it to be winter/fall work attire. So here's what I'm thinking--to modernize a bit, what if I made it out of a nice wool jersey with a little (but not too much) stretch. Maybe in a wine/burgandy hue. Thoughts? Opinions? Has anybody made this thing? Will the jersey be to heavy? Should I follow the pattern recommendations? Okay, next question. I mentioned before that I often spurn the idea that everything must be made from a pattern, and that I am a fan of winging it. I should be more specific. I wing a lot of skirts. However, I have some nice grey wool suiting that I'd really like to turn into a pair of slacks for winter very similarly shaped to a pair of pink slacks I have for summer. Pants from a rubbing? Is this a good idea? Do I really have to make a muslin? (I know the answer to that one, danggit.) If Vincent can do it, so can I, right? (In case I haven't mentioned it, I really hated that outfit, Vincent.)

Obviously, I have nowhere near enough time for all the projects I'd like to do for myself, but I'll keep stitching!

(more Red Dress pictures here)

Posted by amy at 6:11 AM | Permalink | Comments (7)

Tags: comment whoring, kibbeyish party dress, pattern review, red dress, sewing

Comments

OXYCLEAN!

it gets out everything. i have had grease stains on khaki that have been washed and dried into the fabric and it took it out!

xx

Posted by: zach | September 8, 2006 7:16 AM

While I obviously have no contributions for how to make the pattern, I did want to say that I think it's lovely and a wine/burgandy wool jersey would look great on you.

Posted by: leah | September 8, 2006 9:49 AM

Hello... Um, you don't know me, but your blog came up when I was surfing around for more info about Vogue 2903. I am considering trying to make this dress for my wedding, and trying to figure out how complicated it is (yes, without actually buying the pattern yet). You really seem to know your stuff - do you have any insight about this one?

Posted by: DaisyPup | September 23, 2006 3:16 PM

Like the previous poster, I'm looking around for info on Vogue 2903, because I ran into a little snag with the sleeves.

Couple of notes:

- I wouldn't recommend making this in a knit. There's way too much fabric in the skirt, and it will stretch out. I'm making it in a cotton broadcloth, and it's just the right weight.

- I chose my size by my measurements and the instructions, and ended up with a bodice that was way too big. Would have been better off making closer to my normal dress size.

- The 1" strip around the neckline is a separate yolk piece, that according to the pattern, only attaches to the dress with the sleeves and to the bottom of the neck facing. Weird. I may hand stitch that as you've done on 2902.

- The sleeves are where I'm stumbling now. I had to take the bodice/shoulders in so much to fit me that I'm sure this is messing with the fit of the sleeves, though I tried to compensate. It's odd construction; the top of the sleeves are sewn to the yoke of the dress (the 1" edge part). The bottom of the sleeve is attached to the dress. I'm getting a weird bunching where the two meet. Not sure yet how I'll figure that out.

- I definitely recommend making a muslin of the bodice. That neckline has to fit just right to stay on your body.

- My mom reminded me too late: it's easier to upsize a small pattern than to downsize a large one.

Hope this helps.

Posted by: Sara | October 1, 2006 8:20 PM

Posting very very belatedly to say, cute dress! And I'm glad it gave you less trouble than it gave me (although I feel slightly vindicated for the confirmation that those zipper directions are nuts).

To attach my hem band, I did the following:
-Folded one edge down toward the wrong side by about 1/2", and pressed.
-Folded the whole thing in half the long way, and pressed.
-Matched the non-folded edge to the bottom of the skirt, right sides together, and sewed a regular 5/8" seam. Pressed the seam down towards the hem band.
-Flipped the band over at the middle fold. Since the inner edge fold was 1/8" smaller than the seam allowance on the front, this fold overlapped the seam and enclosed the raw edges. Pinned.
-Stitched carefully along the seamline between the skirt and the hem band on the right side, catching the other side of the hem band.

I hope that makes any sense at all!

Posted by: Hilatron | March 7, 2007 6:47 PM

Thanks Hilatron! Your hem instructions make perfect sense. Thanks for this comment--you may have motivated me to actually change this hem before sundress season comes back around. At least, if I can put down my knitting needles long enough to get some sewing done.

Posted by: amy | March 8, 2007 12:27 PM

Your dress turned out gorgeous. I was researching on the Vogue 2902 - I'm making it right now, and am almost done with the endless slipstitch! Yours is gorgeous.

Posted by: Isabelle | April 19, 2007 11:57 PM

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